Friday, February 27, 2009

Pretty as a Penny: Cosmetics

By James Gilbert Pynn

What kind of make-up did Cleopatra wear? We all know how she famously killed herself, but we have no idea what she used for eyeliner. Actually, we do know -- so strike that. She, like most Egyptians, regardless of social and economic standing, used kohl to darken her eyes. In fact, it seems the Ancient Egyptians set the standard for cosmetics in the region, inspiring both the Romans and the Greeks to adopt their cosmetic tools and concoctions.

These concoctions, unfortunately and critically, had such unsavory and life-shortening ingredients as mercury, arsenic, and white lead in them. Repeated and habitual use of these ingredients are sure to have caused a variety of neurological disorders as well as tumors, but that's beside the point. The point is looking good, right? Actually, the Egyptians believed make-up warded off evil spirits. Nothing keeps bad luck at bay better than a painted face, for a while at least.

The archeological evidence indicates make-up, or cosmetics, as we know them today, were not manufactured until the Middle Ages and then well into the Renaissance in Europe. Of course they were only affordable to the artisan and upper classes, yet they also retained a great deal of harmful ingredients. Indeed Queen Elizabeth I of England was renown for having "The Mask of Youth" applied to her face. Unfortunately, the "mask" is certain to have contained arsenic as result of the white lead crushed to make the distinctive face powder.

It would be an equally dominant queen who would decry the use of make-up two hundred years later. Queen Victoria publicly labeled make-up as "improper, vulgar, and acceptable only for use by actors." Indeed, public perception held that only prostitutes and actors wore make-up. An odd lot to be associated with, but the public disdain for cosmetics, at least in Europe and the Americas, would not be lifted until the 20th Century.

By the middle of the 20th century, cosmetics were in widespread use by women in all industrial societies around the world. Its popularity had a great deal to do with the popularity and proliferation of Hollywood movies. With the ascension of the Flapper style in the Twenties, the use of make-up and cosmetic ingredients became ubiquitous. As of 2009, the worldwide consumption of make-up exceeds $19 billion. That's a pretty penny to look pretty. - 16004

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